Tropical Bryology Group visit to Uganda - January/February 1996
Matcham, H.R. 1996. Tropical Bryology Group visit to Uganda. Bulletin BBS 68: 39-41.
The BBS Centenary year began with a visit by six members of the Tropical Bryology Group to south-west Uganda. The six participating members were Jeff Bates, Nick Hodgetts, Howard Matcham, Ron Porley, Robin Stevenson and Martin Wigginton, all but one having recently collected bryophytes in Africa. This and subsequent visits are being funded by a British Government 'Darwin Initiative' Grant.
The two main aims of this first visit were to investigate variations in bryophyte diversity in relation to altitude within the forest and to delimit epiphyte communities to environmental factors such as aspect, height above ground level, slope of bark, etc. On arrival at Entebbe airport we were met by Stephen Byarujali (who remained with us up to the final week) and Bob Lyazi who then drove us the 35km to Makerere University at Kampala where we were to stay at the campus guest house. Following our arrival there was a quick briefing by Professor Pomeroy, Deputy Director of Makerere University Institute of Environment and Natural Resources. He is an expert ornithologist who has worked at the University for many years and who was able to name the unfamiliar birds flying around us including the Black and White Casqued Hornbill, a bird that even impressed the sole non bird-watcher with us! After settling in we were able to explore our surroundings and an abundant Pottiaceous moss turned out to be Hyophila involuta, new to Uganda!
The morning of the second day was spent in Kampala changing our money for the duration of the trip and generally becoming acclimatised to the very hot (89OF) temperature. During the afternoon we all visited the Botanic Gardens at Entebbe. Situated on the shore of Lake Victoria it is a spectacular site for botanist and ornithologist alike.
The following two days Martin and Nick spent sorting out administrative hitches; paper bags for storing specimens that had been sent previously from England proved to be a particular 'red tape' problem and took a lot longer to be released by Entebbe airport officials then we had anticipated, and a certain amount of unofficial money changed hands! Meanwhile at the university the remainder of us perused the herbarium where many bryophytes are housed, including packets in Francis Rose's handwriting (rather like the infamous Kilroy, Rose was here!) At the herbarium we were introduced Nakityo Berna, the young lady herbarium assistant who was to accompany us for the duration of the trip.
On the fifth day we set off for Bwindi (Impenetrable Forest) in two four-wheel drive vehicles (one of which turned out to be an absolute nightmare) hired to us by the University, and after an overnight stay in the town of Mbarara we set off to Kabale where provisions were bought to last us throughout the upland collecting trip. On leaving Kabale the Landrover had the first of its many unscheduled stops, due to very unreliable battery terminals with the positive terminal shorting out through the bonnet. Fortunately our journey continued thanks to the ingenious Dr Bates (hereafter known as 'the mechanic') who kept us rolling for the remainder of the trip. Our first sight of the Impenetrable Forest made us realise what a tremendous task lay before us: densely covered precipitous slopes with no easy access.
Travelling to Ruhiji base camp (2250m) proved to be quite tricky. Torrential rain had turned the narrow forest track into a quagmire, but thankfully we arrived in one piece. We were to stay at the Institute of Tropical Forest Conservation guest house for the next seven to ten days (four members of the team staying on while the other four left for the next stage at Buhoma to the north). Collecting began in earnest on January 25th– six days after arriving at Entebbe!
The following day the team recorded everything within 5 30m square plots whilst Jeff selected five trees within each, recording 5 mini-quadrats on each tree. Representative collections of all species found in these plots were then to be returned to the U.K. for identification. Stephen and Berna made collections to be named at a later date in the Makerere University herbarium. Brief descriptions of the five plots are:
Plot 1 consisted of moderately dense bamboo forest with about seven mature trees, few lianas and a ground cover of herbaceous plants. Altitude 2415m.
Plot 2. Twelve large trees and a dense understorey of shrubs and very dense patches of lianas, ground flora dominated by ferns. Altitude 2270m.
Plot 3. Around a dozen tall trees, dense understorey of shrubs and a sparse ground flora of mainly small ferns. Altitude 2005m.
Plot 4. Eight large trees with a dense understorey of shrubs, tree seedlings and saplings. Many lianas ascending tree trunks with a sparse herbaceous layer. Altitude 1500m.
Plot 5. Recorded in forest about 1 km east of the Zaire border near Rukubira after the team had moved on from Ruhija. High forest with about 80% canopy cover at perhaps 40m height. Understorey sparse as was the ground flora which was composed mainly of ferns. Altitude 1680m.
Whilst at Ruhija, Nick and Ron, accompanied by native trackers spent two full days recording in the interior and camping under canvas, apparently pitching the tents on a well used elephant track. Ron has told me that he lay awake waiting for the inevitable trunk call! Two interesting bryophytes recorded from here were the epiphyllous hepatic Odontolejeunea lunulata and the moss Rhizofabronia persoonii. On 30 January four of us left for the next venue at Buhoma, the remainder staying to record plot 4 and arriving on 1 February. We were all looking forward to seeing Mountain Gorillas, and we were not disappointed as one of the habituated groups had taken up residence next to the camp site. Robin and I had close views (no more than 3m) when we trekked 6km over very difficult terrain with three tourists from Truro (who knew Jean Paton, small world). It was worth it; to be so close to these magnificent animals was a great thrill. The mist-filled valleys of the lower slopes at Ruhija and at Buhoma were very rich in bryophytes compared to the bamboo forest at the higher altitudes. Many taxa were collected and the experience gained by members from previous visits to Malawi, Lesotho and South Africa enabled us not only to place plants into a family and genus but also to name several to species level.
On 4 February we left Buhoma for a few days relaxation at the Queen Elizabeth National Park to the north, on the shore of Lake Edward. The descent from the tropical rain forest to dry savannah of the Rift Valley was dramatic. Bryophytes were virtually non-existent, the only frequent species seen being Pseudocrossidium porphyreoneura. This was compensated for by the abundant birds and animals seen. A memorable boat trip on the Kazinga Channel (separating Lake Edward from Lake George) enabled close views and photographs to be taken of hippopotamus. These animals apparently kill more people in Africa than any other, so it was somewhat disconcerting to find them grazing at night a few feet away from our accommodation. It was a relief to find that they took no notice of us at all as we staggered (perhaps I should say I staggered) back from having a pint or two at the local bar. The birds seen on the lake included the Goliath Heron and the spectacular Saddle-billed Stork. Warthogs roamed the lawns and a tame? Spotted Hyena visited the guests at meal-time during the late evening. In all, a truly memorable experience.
A long drive back to Kampala and a couple of days spent sorting specimens, all of which we were able to bring back with us on the aircraft. Martin and Nick are to be warmly commended for all the hard work put into organising this trip and sorting bureaucratic blips while in Uganda.
Sadly, Stephen Byarujali had to return to Kampala before the final week because of family illness. I understand his niece died shortly afterwards. We all extend our sincere sympathy and wish to thank him for all his help, both before and during our stay in Uganda.
HOWARD MATCHAM